The Fly Fishing Primer
A Classic Approach To The Gentle Art Of Angling By Fly

by
jim Repine
RODS
The first and most obvious difference between fly fishing and other forms of the sport is the casting, launching the bait, lure or fly from the tip of the rod to the water. In bait casting, level wind fishing or spinning, the rod is moved up and backward in such a way as to form a drawn (or bent) bow, then forward and suddenly stopped so the bow’s forward release propels the weight of the bait or lure out over the water. The line is pulled off the reel by the weight of the bait or lure. It’s an effective way of reaching fish with your offering, yet has the limitation of not being able to cast smaller, nearly weightless insect imitations, as so much of fly fishing is concerned with.
Though forming the bow in your back cast and stopping the forward movement of the rod during the forward cast to cause the bow to release (fire) is much the same, fly rods are generally longer and are designed to cast the weight of the line rather than the weight of bait or lure. Thus is accomplished the transport of near weightless flies over the water to the fish. I’ve been asked if the idea is to cause an artificial fly with a hook inside it to hover (fly) just over the water’s surface and entice fish to leap up and grab them. Since fly casting sometimes involves several ‘false’ casts back and forth until the angler is satisfied the fly will land just where it should, to an untutored observer the question might seem logical. However the more skill one acquires with practice the less back casting is required.
Angling with flies as we know it today has been traditionally based on the pursuit of trout and salmon though, especially in the last half century, it has spread throughout the fishing world until at present it would be hard to find a specie of fish which hasn’t been taken or isn’t regularly sought after by fly anglers. This has caused fly rod design and manufacture to expand almost beyond belief. Not too long ago the average fly rodder owned a trout rod – one trout rod – and if he or she had the inclination, time, and wherewithal, there might be a second, longer and heavier, salmon rod.
Today it’s not unusual to talk with anglers who have a couple or more trout rods, perhaps a light 4 weight for smaller streams and fish and a 6/7/8 weight for larger fish on larger water. The same fisher could have a specially fabricated 8/9 weight for bone fishing saltwater flats and a 10 to 12 weight for high jumping 100 pound tarpon. And if the angler is old enough to have gone through the various rod material transitions, pre WW2 bamboo, post WW2 fiber glass, followed by carbon fiber, and presently a growing resurgence back to bamboo, they might easily have twenty or more fly rods stuffed in a closet somewhere at home. So what’s for you?
It depends on the angler. Mel Krieger, internationally known fly casting instructor, maintains fly fishers come in two general classifications, poets and engineers. The poet is the one whose greater satisfaction derives from melodies sung by flowing streams fused with lilting bird songs and insect buzzing. A high snow-capped mountain, back dropping already lovely scenery is more cause for elation to this angler than the cutting edge mechanics of a $400 reel. And the exotically intricate markings of a spawning male brook trout excite deeper inner stirrings for the poet than things like leader diameters, or whatever high modulus, XXX PLC, marketing-hype describes the newest graphite rod’s plastic compound. So for the poet it’s probably wise to go with bamboo from the beginning. Why?
Like a fine violin or deftly carved wooden duck decoy there is no way you can mass produce their artistic equals from plastic. The imitations, no matter how close they come in appearance, feel and even performance will still be – different. They will always be less beautiful to see, less soft and delicate to hold, and less a joy to cast. Remember however these are qualities for poets to savor while engineers look for other things.
The engineer wants technical logic, durability, and cost efficiency. He wants convincing charts and graphs demonstrating the precise required physical effort needed to cast a specific weight and length of fly line a given distance. He’s fascinated by weaving and plastic coating processes in line fabrication. Natural materials in rods or flies don’t matter if synthetics can do the job, and leader diameters and the like are important issues.
Which one are you? Like the vast majority of us, I would bet you’re some mix of both. Graphite rods for example have become finely perfected casting instruments incorporating an amazing balance between light weight and high flexibility, and are almost impervious to sun exposure, moisture, and temperature extremes. They cost a little less than bamboo, though the price gap is closing, and aren’t as beautiful (to me), but a well made Graphite rod can be lovely to look at, a thing of pride to own, and can genuinely enhance your angling pleasure. I don’t want to go back to horsehair, gut leaders or even silk lines, nor do I want to travel the ever expanding fishing world by extended ocean voyages. With my favorite fly pattern being my own ‘jim’s Green,’ a fall caddis variation using Poly Yarn (a waterproof synthetic) for its body and olive green elk hair (ever see an olive green elk?) for the wing, I can hardly be called a purist.
So why are the vast majority of rods available today made of graphite? First because it’s an excellent, practical, long lasting material lending itself well to mass production. Second it came on the scene after WWll during a time when fly fishing was growing and the only bamboo then thought suitable for rod building came from a single province in China, at the time cut off from trade with the US. Now, with trade again flourishing between the two countries and the growing awareness of other strains of bamboo from Japan, Argentina, and elsewhere, equally suitable for rod making, fine cane (bamboo) rods are again becoming more available.
And there’s also a newer innovation in rod making, offering a combination of both cane and graphite attributes. It’s called Hexagraph and is made from high grade graphite yet isn’t a hollow tube. Instead strips of graphite, like strips of bamboo, are formed into hexagonal rods combining the very pleasing casting qualities of cane with the carefree durability of carbon graphite. These rod’s exteriors are finished in a very realistic bamboo color and are beautiful. I have used several and found them all they claim to be.
How To Select Your First Fly Rod
A good first step in finding a rod which will best serve you on the water, give you a feeling of pride of ownership, and perform well enough for your casting skill to reach its highest possible level, is a trip to your nearest fly shop. However don’t go there to buy anything more than an instruction book, DVD, or Video cassette. Make friends with someone working there who you’re convinced is a knowledgeable, practicing fly fisher. Go to the rod rack, pick up everything on display, look at each one closely, feel how they come alive in your hands, and ask questions – lots of them. Remember, in a good fly shop there are no foolish questions. One important thing to ask about is the closest local fly fishing club.
For your second step attend a fly fishing club meeting and make it known you’re new to the sport, interested in learning as much as possible, and looking for your first rod. Then be prepared for a blizzard of tips, suggestions, opinions and harangues. You’ll pick up a lot of information and doubtless make a buddy or two who will take you under their wings. An important thing you’ll want to find out, either at the club or the fly shop, is what fly casting classes are being offered, when and where.
Fly casting instruction classes used to be few and, literally, far between. I can recall not too long ago when the only ones I would have suggested were Mel Krieger’s schools in and around San Francisco, Joan and Lee Wulff’s school in upper state New York, the Orvis school in Manchester Vermont, and wherever you could attend a class/seminar with Lefty Kreh or Cortland Line Company’s Leon Chandler. Today good casting instruction, in classes and private, are almost everywhere. I urge you to attend one. BUT not after you’ve bought your rod. The school will furnish a rod and give you your first taste and feel of actual casting. However you’re getting close. Once the school is completed, go home and bring up the internet and punch up ‘fly rods.’ You’ll need some hours for this part of the project, but you’ll be ready then to go back to the fly shop and ask to cast any and all of the offerings you find attractive.
By now you will already know rods come in different weights and lengths, the reason being to accommodate varied angling situations. You will probably know as well what type of fishing you’ll begin with. Though fly fishing and trout are the most traditional combination, depending on where you live, from ocean to mountains to plains, there are great species of fish being taken on fly rods not too far away. It’s almost without limit; salmon, trout, char, pike, bass, perch, crappie, steelhead, musky, carp, catfish, bream, gar, and walleye, to name a few freshwater favorites. Bluefish, tuna, striped bass, bonefish, tarpon, shark, snook, redfish, sailfish, billfish, roosterfish, and marlin are just some saltwater examples which quickly come to mind. The fish above range from a quarter of a pound to over a ton and there are fly rods just right for each of them.
For small streams, rivers and lakes with smaller fish, lighter and sometimes shorter rods are better. 3 or 4 weight (the weight of the line the rod is designed to cast) in a 7 foot length could be just the ticket. Often smaller streams put you closer to surrounding bushes and trees where there isn’t much room for your backcast, plus there usually isn’t as much need on smaller water for long casts. Shorter, lighter rods can be an advantage in tight situations with high banks close behind you, or anywhere else with obstructed backcast challenges. But be aware there are better casters who prefer shorter rods in various weights and find no problem in casting them for distance. I have an 8 foot for an 8 weight line and love it though most 8 weights come in 9 foot lengths. Why?
In order to transfer maximum energy from your arm to your rod flex deals with a lot more than rod length. Smooth movement, and timing are especially important and contrary to some opinions, fast (stiffer) rods don’t necessarily create more powerful forward casts than slower (softer) rods. And as individual and unique as fingerprints, each person’s physical structure is different, most with wide parameters of adjustability. Practice enough and sooner or later you will be able to cast an acceptably long looping line from the end of a broomstick. There are trick casters who can cast entire lines (90 feet) with no rod, only their bare hands.
A good all around rod for most trout fishing might be a 5 or 6 weight, 9 foot model, not too overpowering for 12 to 14 inch fish yet strong enough to handle the 20 inch monster when it shows up. Salmon, steelhead, and sea-run brown trout fishers with a realistic shot at 20 plus pounders are mostly into 8 and 9 weight, 9 footers which is also about right for redfish, snook, and bonefish in saltwater.
A wide variety of rods will, with use and your physical adaptability, turn out to be pleasant and effective on the water. However there are ‘best’ rods for you. Now go back to the fly shop. Look at many and try them out again. The nicest part of this initial process might be that fly rods are like trout, you find them in very pleasant places. What about price?
No amount of money will guarantee the rod you feel attracted to is or isn’t better than any other. What you have been doing to this point is like an extended wine tasting, you have tried a wide variety of vintages and now it’s time to fill your cellar. What do you buy? The one with the best taste. At the art gallery select the art you like and want to live with. Though reputable shops don’t knowingly carry rods below minimal quality standards, price should never be your deciding factor. With reasonable luck and care, you’ll probably give it to your grand kids and like bargain musical instruments, if they’re too low in quality, they’re a hindrance to learning rather than a help. So at the fly shop choose the rod with the most seductive smile, in other words the one that really turns you on.
REELS
Whether the wheel was discovered or invented and how long ago is an interesting thing to ponder yet sometime during the 1600’s one of its hundreds of variations, the ‘winch,’ started to be attached to rods. It was primarily a handy device for storing additional line though it wouldn’t have been long before fishers began learning to employ it for fighting larger fish as well.
“How can you catch large fish on such light tackle?” It’s another common question when non anglers examine fly fishing equipment.
With a line attached to a rod’s tip, the bend in the rod provides a flexible cushion to the pressure of a fish’s pull enabling an angler to wear down his prize without stressing the equipment to the breaking point, but there are obvious limitations. By adding additional line on a reel you can pass out more line when needed and further relieve and control the pressure on the rod bend and the line. In fact the more sophisticated the reel the more you can add the pull (drag) of the reel to the resistance of line and rod bend and gain an even more tiring effect on the fish. Giant fish are often landed on amazingly light gear by this ‘three pressures’ combination.
The same ‘search and learn’ process you went through in selecting your rod can work for reels. Some anglers maintain reels, especially those used for smaller fish, serve no purpose other than line storage. It’s one way to see things yet if it’s completely valid, since they all tell time no wrist watch should sell for more than $50 bucks. The prime differences in reels (or watches) are in material, design, and craftsmanship. Stainless steel is stronger, lasts longer and is less subject to corrosion than most other materials. Various aluminum alloys can sometimes work well. Some reel parts function fairly well in plastic, others don’t. Overall reel weight is vital in complimenting rod action in combination with line weight. Also, in addition to fish fighting, balancing these three elements will go a long way toward making casting the pleasing and satisfying exercise it should be.
Design, mechanical and esthetic, effects things like smooth, durable, fiction free, functioning; simple, easily serviced construction, and effective, long lasting drag systems. Plus, for most of us, attractive reel design is as value enhancing as any other eye appealing adornment. I have a deep fascination with fly fishing history and my favorite reels all seem to reflect it in their 18/19th century look. There are equally high quality models available that look like tomorrow’s space ships. There’s something for every taste.
My two all time favorites are a pair of Adam’s original designed sweethearts Bill Adams put together by hand. They represent the culmination of his lifetime passion for the poetic side of fishing wedded with long decades as a gifted designer machinist. I’ve never felt a smoother operating piece of machinery. It’s like the finest Swiss watch movement, yet in appearance could pass for something out of the late eighteen hundreds, not to mention they have both been put to grueling tests on several occasions on much larger fish than one would imagine and have performed every time with faultless precision.
You might think about those rare and thrilling occasions when the ‘big guy’ finally shows up, your cast was good, you selected the correct fly, and set the hook well; you did it all just right. Now the mega fish jumps, your heart’s in your mouth, but you’re cool, you give line by lowering your rod tip. When the fish reenters the water you gently raise your rod and reconnect. ‘Great!’ You’re thinking. Then your trophy of trophies takes off in a reel roasting run; your reel roasts, seizes up, snapping the leader, and you’re left with one more of the countless versions of, “The Big One That Got Away.” If you’re going to have a quality rod, put a quality reel on it.
LINES
I’ve come to a time when I almost never fish anything other than floating lines. They come in two basic styles, Weight Forward and Double Tapered. Remember in fly casting it’s the weight of the line you’re propelling out over the water. While the weight forward line is tapered from its tip back for several feet, its heaviest portion is in the next few feet, with the longest portion remaining rather thin for easy movement through the rod guides. It’s designed for maximum distance casting. The idea is to get the weightiest part in the air, moving back and forward with your forward and back casts so when you release (launch, fire, propel) the cast, the momentum of the weight will carry the line following it farther. It’s effective and can be helpful in windy conditions, or when distance is more important than pinpoint accuracy or delicate presentation. Large rivers, ocean flats, and some still water situations are especially suited to these types of lines.
Double tapered lines generally have longer, more gradual tapers and are easier to make dead-on accurate and more delicate presentations. Finer balance makes them the most pleasant lines of all to cast with another advantage being by having identical tapers at each end of the line, when one end begins showing too much wear you simply reverse the line on your reel and start again with the unused portion. It can double the life of your line. And frankly, with enough practice and skill, you will come closer and closer to the same distances as the weight forward. If you start out with only one line, a double tapered, floating line is probably the best choice.
Present day fly casting lines come in a wide variety of colors from low-visibility dull shades of green, off-white, and grey to hi-visibility bright orange, red, yellow, etc. There are two ideas. One is low-visibility has less chance of alarming fish. It could be, though being able to easily see the line in the air and on the water is a real help in casting accurately. The bright color advocates contend fish are color blind and unaffected by hi-visibility colors. All I’ve read over the years indicates fish being color blind is true. However light does reflect differently from color to color which seems likely to have an effect so I still prefer the softer tones.
Your second line might be a Sink Tip. In this configuration the first several feet (usually 10 or 20) of line is weighted and sinks thus taking your fly down to the fish. These lines come in fast, medium and slow sinking weights. If you will be fishing larger rivers with faster current, the fast sinker will be your best choice. In deep lakes where you want to go down quickly fast sinking will also do better but many situations call for sinking less deeply which is the reason for the other two weights. One thing to know is the lighter the weight of the sinking portion the easier it will be to lift out of the water for your back cast, and the more pleasant the casting will be. Again your fly shop pro should be able to council you once he or she knows where most of your fishing is likely to be.
Beyond this are dozens of technically more sophisticated ‘specialty’ line configurations; ‘shooting heads,’ similar to sink tips but each length and weight more specifically designed for a particular situation, ‘wet belly,’ with the sinking portion much higher up the line causing the line to sink but with several feet at the front being normal weight, ‘shooting floating heads,’ and on and on. Then there are different weights in many sinking flies, but we’ll get into them later.
LEADERS
A ‘leader’ is an additional length of line (usually nylon) with its butt attached to the end of the fly casting line. Being much thinner than fly casting line and, to some degree, transparent it serves to eliminate the visual connection between the casting line and the fly, as well as helping the fly land more naturally and softly on the water. In fly fishing, deception is the name of the game. The less apparent association a fly has with hard to disguise fly casting line, and the more naturally it lands on the water, the more likely a fish will take it.
I like 10 foot, knotless leaders. Except in extremely clear water with very finicky fish 10 feet of separation between the casting line and the fly is enough. Some anglers prefer tying their own leaders usually in three, more or less, equal sections much like the horsehair line style. The butt end (which ties to the casting line) is heavy weight, the middle section is lighter, and the tippet section is lighter still. The leader is connected by knots which if properly tied are strong enough yet can also be inclined to gather loose grass, other aquatic plants, small bits of debris, etc. Prepackaged knotless leaders are tapered and don’t snag trash but are more expensive. The knotless aspect is worth the price difference to me.
For most trout and general fishing, 4 pound test tippets are about right. For salmon, steelhead, sea-run trout and fish that may exceed 20 pounds an 8 or 10 pound test tippet makes sense. Again it’s a balancing act between low-visibility and breaking strength at the tippet. The unattainable ideal would be never breaking, totally invisible leaders. While that’s not possible, with enough skill used by an angler in the application of reel drag, and rod elasticity, you can come pretty darn close.
VESTS
One of Lee Wulff’s many equipment creations, it’s hard now to imagine a fly fisher without a vest. In fact the concept of a multiple pocketed, short, sleeveless, jacket to carry tools and gadgets in the least bothersome way yet handy to reach has turned out so helpful, now you can find adaptations for photographers, bird watchers, carpenters, travelers, and many others. There is one negative factor however you should be aware of.
No other sport seems to offer as many non essential but addictively attractive gadgets and extra paraphernalia as fly fishing. The list, from thermometers, tweezers, compasses and flash lights to leader micrometers, line clippers, raincoats, landing nets, and folding wading sticks, is endless. It’s like a small backpack, minus the tent and sleeping bag, but can easily get so heavy you don’t want to lug it around all day. Now and then it will pay to review its contents and eliminate the items which haven’t proved necessary or especially useful. Beware of vests designated as ‘guides models.’ They’re usually maximum capacity, made of heavier material and capable of carrying vast collections of gear. While there are situations where guides feel it essential to have lots of extra items and quantity, it’s not often a wise choice for the rest of us.
In the case of those who fish several different species regularly, each requiring some specialized gear, it’s a good idea to keep two or three separate vests. Outfit each one for the particular species rather than having a large capacity back breaker for all. Durable but light, quick drying material is always best along with an ample back pouch for a high quality rain jacket. Try on several and see how they feel across your shoulders. If they’re OK there and don’t restrict your arm movements they should be good.
RAINCOATS
Nothing can make a fishing trip more miserable than wind, rain and poor raingear. Breathable fabrics like Gore Tex and others have greatly improved all weather-clothing to an extent that it’s no longer necessary to suffer from rain, wind or both. While there are various other materials used in rain garments the problem has always been that 100% waterproof clothes caused so much perspiration you would still get wet, yet if it ventilated enough to prevent sweating it didn’t keep out rain or wind. Don’t skimp or look for bargains here.
A first quality, jacket-length rain coat designed to fit over your sweater, waders and vest, fitting snugly at the waist and the cuffs, is just the ticket. It should fold compactly enough to fit in the pouch on the back of your vest and should be light enough to be unnoticed when not needed. It’s also surprising how much warmth your jacket will add to your sweater when used only as a wind-breaker.
BOOTS
As in all outdoor activities nothing is more key to your comfort and safety than your footgear. This is something where bargains are rarely a good deal. Most of the high reputation wader companies carry a varied line of quality wading boots. I’ve had good luck over the years sticking with boots and wader combinations of the same brand, though that’s not to say there aren’t some excellent offerings elsewhere. I have fishing friends who use and seem pleased with synthetic materials but leather is still my first choice. Felt soles are best for general wading on typical slippery surfaces while extremely challenging stream bottoms may require the addition of metal spikes. Spikes however can be damaging to boat decks so if sometimes you will be using rafts, drift boats, canoes, and the like you should have a pair of both kinds.
For the normal angler who fishes five or six times a year, good leather boots should last eight or nine years while the cheaper versions can wear out in a season or two. Besides added comfort and better support the economics are obvious. With leather an application of preservative now and then will keep them supple and easy to put on and take off. I buy mine a full size larger than my shoe size and always wear thick wool socks inside them. My feet remain cushioned and cozy.
WADERS
Although wading in shorts and wading sandals on hot summer days can be very pleasant indeed, most of the time quality waders will make things easier and more comfortable when you want or need to get into the water. Hip, waist, and chest high are the length options while the most common variations are, boot foot (the boots are an integral part of the waders), or stocking foot (the boots are separate). The obvious differences are in weight; the less material you wear around all day the less fatiguing, and in height; the higher they extend the deeper you can wade. Consider also that the more the waders cover, the more protection they offer from rain, wind and cold, but then they trap more heat on hot days.
For me the best solution turns out to be a chest high that can fold down to waist height when I prefer. I find the most comfortable all around are those fabricated of ‘breathable’ material and I control how warm I remain by the clothes I wear under them on a given day.
So now you have a rod, reel, line, leader, vest, wading gear, and rain jacket.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Coming Next Week: Chapter Three

Recent Coments